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Strategic Study of CAE >> 2000, Volume 2, Issue 5

Wave Spectrum Transformation and Wave Breaking on Gentle Slope

1.State Key Lab of Coastal and Offshore Engineering, Dalian University of Technol, Dalian, Liaoning 116024, China

2.Chengkung University, Coastal Ocean Monitoring Center, Tainan, Taiwan, China

Funding project:国家自然科学基金资助项目(49876026) Received: 1999-07-12 Revised: 2000-03-03 Available online: 2000-05-20

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Abstract

Based on theoretical analysis, computation and physical model tests, the breaking criteria for irregular waves, wave spectrum transformation, wave breaking phenomena and the method of analysis and computation, as well as the non-breaking critical slope condition are discussed in this paper. The computation results are compared with both physical model test data and data by field wave spectral measurement, which coincide with each other quite well.

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