Journal Home Online First Current Issue Archive For Authors Journal Information 中文版

Strategic Study of CAE >> 2004, Volume 6, Issue 4

Simulation of Wave Propagation Over a Submerged Bar Using a Modified Boussinesq Equation

1. Guangzhou Institute of Energy Conversion , Chinese Academy of Sciences , Guangzhou 510640 , China

2. State Key Laboratory of Coasted and Offshore Engineering , Dalian University of Technology , Dalian , Liaoning 116023 , China

Funding project:国家自然科学基金重点资助项目(10332050);国家自然科学基金资助项目(50379001);国家杰出青年科学基金资助项目(50125924);广东省自然科学基金资助项目(20021503) Received: 2003-06-02 Revised: 2003-07-15 Available online: 2004-04-20

Next Previous

Abstract

A modified Boussinesq equation is numerically studied. It is discretized by use of the predictor-corrector scheme. The numerical model applied to the propagation of waves over a submerged bar can produce results that are in general agreement with some laboratory measurements. The surface transformation of waves over the submerged bar is reproduced successfully by the numerical simulation. Comparison of numerical results with experimental data shows that the modified Boussinesq equation itself and the numerical solution method for it need to be studied further. These results can give some theoretical guidance to the applications of Boussinesq equation to wave propagation over complex topography in coastal areas.

Figures

图1

图2

References

[ 1 ] PeregrineDH Longwavesonabeach[J]JFluidMech, 1967, 27 (4) :815~827

[ 2 ] Abbott M B, Petersen H M, Skovgoard O. On the numerical modelling of short waves in shallow water [J]. J Hydraulic Research, 1978, 16 (3) : 173~203

[ 3 ] StiassnieM , DaganG .Partialreflectionofwaterwavesbynon uniformadvertcurrents[J].JFluidMech, 1979, 92 (1) :119~129

[ 4 ] Lasen J, Dancy H. Open boundaries in short wave simulations: a new approach [J]. Coastal Engineering, 1983, 7 (3) : 285~297

[ 5 ] Abbott M B, McCowan A D, Warren I R. Accuracy of short-wave numerical models [J]. J Hydraulic Engineering, 1984, 110 (10) : 1287~1301

[ 6 ] Yoon S B, Liu P L F. Interaction of currents and weakly nonlinear water waves in shallow water [J]. J Fluid Mech, 1989, 205: 397~419

[ 7 ] MadsenPA , S rensenOR , Sch fferHA .AnewformofBoussinesqequationswithimprovedlinearcharacteristics[J].CoastalEngineering, 1991, 15:371~388

[ 8 ] MadsenPA , S rensenOR , Sch fferHA .AnewformofBoussinesqequationswithimprovedlinearcharacteristics:Part2aslowly varyingbathymetry[J].CoastalEngineering, 1992, 18:183~204

[ 9 ] Sch fferHA , MadsenPA , FurtherenhancementsofBoussinesq-typeequations[J].CoastalEngineering, 1995, 26:1~14

[10] Nwogu O. Alternative form of Boussinesq equations for nearshore wave propagation [J]. J Wtrwy Port Coastal, and Ocean Engineering, ASCE, 1993, 119 (6) : 618~638

[11] Beji S, Battjes J A. Numerical simulation of nonlinear waves over a bar [J], Coastal Engineering, 1994, 23: 1~16

[12] WeiG , KirbyJT .Time dependentnumericalcodeforextendedBoussinesqequations[J].JWtrwyPort, Coastal, andOceanEngineering, ASCE , 1995, 121 (5) :251~261

[13] MadsenPA , S rensenOR , Sch fferHA .SurfzonedynamicssimulatedbyaBoussinesqtypemodel:Part1modeldescriptionandcross shoremotionofregularwaves[J].CoastalEngineering, 1997, a32:255~287

[14] MadsenPA , S rensenOR , Sch fferHA .SurfzonedynamicssimulatedbyaBoussinesqtypemodel:Part2surfbeatandswashoscillationsforwavegroupsandirregularwaves[J].CoastalEngineering, 1997, b32:289~319

[15] KaihatuJM , KirbyJT .Two dimensionalparabolicmodellingofextendedBoussinesqequations[J].JWtrwyPort, Coastal, andOceanEngineering, ASCE , 1998, 124 (2) :57~67

[16] Wei G, Kirby J T, Sinha A. A fully nonlinear Boussinesq model for surface waves: Part 1 highly nonlinear unsteady waves [J]. J Fluid Mech, 1995, 294: 71~92

[17] ChenQ , MadsenPA , Sch fferHA , etal.Wave currentinteractionbasedonanenhancedBoussinesqapproach[J].CoastalEngineering, 1998, 33:11~39

[18] GobbiMF , KirbyJT .Waveevolutionoversubmergedsills:testsofahigh orderBoussinesqmodel[J].CoastalEngineering, 1999, 37:57~96

[19] Beji S, Nadaoka K. A formal derivation and numerical modelling of the improved Boussinesq equations for varying depth [J]. Ocean Engineering, 1996, 23 (8) : 691~704

[20] Beji S, Battjes J A. Experimental investigations of wave propagation over a bar [J]. Coastal Engineering, 1993, 19 (1~2) : 151~162

[21] Ohyama T, Kiota W, Tada A. Applicability of numerical models to nonlinear dispersive waves [J]. Coastal Engineering, 1994, 24: 297~313

Related Research