平缓岸坡上波浪谱的变形及破碎
Wave Spectrum Transformation and Wave Breaking on Gentle Slope
文章通过理论分析和实验研究,讨论了平缓岸坡条件下不规则波的破碎指标、波浪谱变形与破碎特点及其计算方法和不再发生破碎的岸坡条件,并与物模实验结果和现场观测结果进行比较,结果吻合较好。
Based on theoretical analysis, computation and physical model tests, the breaking criteria for irregular waves, wave spectrum transformation, wave breaking phenomena and the method of analysis and computation, as well as the non-breaking critical slope condition are discussed in this paper. The computation results are compared with both physical model test data and data by field wave spectral measurement, which coincide with each other quite well.
wave spectrum / beach slope / transformation / breaking
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