Wave Spectrum Transformation and Wave Breaking on Gentle Slope

Li Yucheng1、 Cui Lifang1、 Yu Yang1、 Dong Guohai1、 Gao Jiajun2、 Zhuang Shixian2

Strategic Study of CAE ›› 2000, Vol. 2 ›› Issue (5) : 51-59.

PDF(4897 KB)
PDF(4897 KB)
Strategic Study of CAE ›› 2000, Vol. 2 ›› Issue (5) : 51-59.
Academic Papers

Wave Spectrum Transformation and Wave Breaking on Gentle Slope

  • Li Yucheng1、 Cui Lifang1、 Yu Yang1、 Dong Guohai1、 Gao Jiajun2、 Zhuang Shixian2

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Abstract

Based on theoretical analysis, computation and physical model tests, the breaking criteria for irregular waves, wave spectrum transformation, wave breaking phenomena and the method of analysis and computation, as well as the non-breaking critical slope condition are discussed in this paper. The computation results are compared with both physical model test data and data by field wave spectral measurement, which coincide with each other quite well.

Keywords

wave spectrum / beach slope / transformation / breaking

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Li Yucheng,Cui Lifang,Yu Yang,Dong Guohai,Gao Jiajun,Zhuang Shixian. Wave Spectrum Transformation and Wave Breaking on Gentle Slope. Strategic Study of CAE, 2000, 2(5): 51‒59
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