
Wave Spectrum Transformation and Wave Breaking on Gentle Slope
Li Yucheng1、 Cui Lifang1、 Yu Yang1、 Dong Guohai1、 Gao Jiajun2、 Zhuang Shixian2
Strategic Study of CAE ›› 2000, Vol. 2 ›› Issue (5) : 51-59.
Wave Spectrum Transformation and Wave Breaking on Gentle Slope
Li Yucheng1、 Cui Lifang1、 Yu Yang1、 Dong Guohai1、 Gao Jiajun2、 Zhuang Shixian2
Based on theoretical analysis, computation and physical model tests, the breaking criteria for irregular waves, wave spectrum transformation, wave breaking phenomena and the method of analysis and computation, as well as the non-breaking critical slope condition are discussed in this paper. The computation results are compared with both physical model test data and data by field wave spectral measurement, which coincide with each other quite well.
wave spectrum / beach slope / transformation / breaking
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